Days pass so fast here in Bali! Can’t believe today is my last day! My shoulders are so sore from surfing and I’ve learned so much! Even though I am a complete rookie when it comes to surfing I am now starting to understand it a bit more. I still surf long boards (like 7 ft) and sometimes I wont even make it out to the break but every day I surf I get a little bit less intimidated and more comfortable in the waves. The memory of when me and Lucas went out in too big swell is still fresh but this trip I’ve been taking it slowly and its proven much better.
I am so happy to have friends like Camilla and Gabbe who has been kind enough to not only let me stay with them but also taken me around the island! We’ve been going to different breaks almost every day depending on the wind, the swell and the sun. Today being my last day I would have loved to go for a last surf but I woke up from the sound of rain. Maybe it will pass by he afternoon so we shall see.
Anyways, so happy to be here!
So life is pretty good here! My friends are really taking good care of me and they know all the best places for both surfing, eating and shopping on this island. The wonderful owners of the houser are all going home either today or tomorrow so last night we had a big going away party for the with a BBQ and some guitarplaying which ended up with an insane pool party. Now were heading to a massage and then maybe seeing if there’s some surf (:
You know when you’ve had a rough day. You legs are tired, your head is mush and are so hungry you feel like you’re about to implode at any second? All you can think of is that you don’t think there’s anything in the fridge and you really don’t have the energy to cook anywas. But you get home and your mom/boyfriend/brother has made you dinner. Do you know that extreme feeling of happiness and coming home? That’s exactly what I felt after my 22 hours on 3 different airplanes. Not really the food part but the gratitude of coming to this amazing villa with some great Swedish people. The first thing we did after a couple of hours of sleep was to jump on our mopeds and head for the surf. I had so much fun at a beginner break and today I am so sore I can barely move. The internet connection here is like the rest of the ambiance: chilled out, so I won’t be checking in too much during my time here. I am too busy enjoying the bali life of surf, yoga, sunbathing, after surf partying and mango-eating anyways, and it’s only been two days!!