Days pass so fast here in Bali! Can’t believe today is my last day! My shoulders are so sore from surfing and I’ve learned so much! Even though I am a complete rookie when it comes to surfing I am now starting to understand it a bit more. I still surf long boards (like 7 ft) and sometimes I wont even make it out to the break but every day I surf I get a little bit less intimidated and more comfortable in the waves. The memory of when me and Lucas went out in too big swell is still fresh but this trip I’ve been taking it slowly and its proven much better.
I am so happy to have friends like Camilla and Gabbe who has been kind enough to not only let me stay with them but also taken me around the island! We’ve been going to different breaks almost every day depending on the wind, the swell and the sun. Today being my last day I would have loved to go for a last surf but I woke up from the sound of rain. Maybe it will pass by he afternoon so we shall see.
Anyways, so happy to be here!